Writer Anna Rice sends her postcards from Salzburg, following a family trip to Austria at Easter.
The ‘hills’ are certainly alive in Austria, with the sound of joy that only real outdoors adventure can bring, alongside the collective sigh of relief from parents who have finally found a kids’ club their children want to spend time in. With everything from hiking, biking, lake tubing and skiing to lofty fortresses, spectacular palaces and trendy coffee shops to scope out, Salzburg really does have something for everyone.
Perfectly situated for Alpine adventure, there are excellent ski resorts – many with heavenly spas and round the clock childcare on offer – under an hour’s drive away. While the city is easy to explore with even the littlest ones in tow thanks to its riverside cycle/scooter/buggy paths and multitude of playgrounds.
Where to Go
Salzburg old town – One of the best-preserved baroque towns in Europe, exploring the maze of streets in the charm-filled Alstadt feels a bit like going down Alice’s rabbit hole. Duck down alley ways and wind along its narrow streets to discover pretty boutiques, sunny beer gardens and beautiful town squares with plenty of space for the kids to run off some energy.
Café culture rules here, and you can’t leave Salzburg without visiting at least one traditional coffee house. Tomaselli, dating back to 1700 is said to be Austria’s oldest and a rumoured hangout of Mozart’s, with cakes to die for. While trendy 220 Grad is holding a more contemporary court with
chic, industrial interiors, an extensive coffee menu and its own roastery.
Follow the Sound of Music – 2025 is the 60th anniversary of the acclaimed 1965 film starring Julie Andrews. Love it or loathe it, the Salzburg scenery became as iconic as the characters themselves and I challenge anyone not to dance around the Pegasus Fountain in the Mirabelle Gardens or twirl around the summer gazebo Liesl style in the Hellbrunn Palace gardens. Though there are organised tours, we hired a car for the day which is a more budget friendly option for those travelling as a family.
Mountain retreats – Salzburg is perfectly located for families looking to combine some city culture with some relaxation in the mountains. Austria is fast gaining a reputation for resorts which are raising the bar when it comes to quality round the clock childcare, gourmet food, world class spas and outdoors activities. We stayed in family-owned/run Naturhotel Forstofgut set amongst alpine meadows and
spectacular mountain scenery, just under an hours from Salzburg. Catering for both the ski in and out set, and the wellness brigade, its stunning setting and extensive range of activities for both kids and adults had us all longing to return.
What To Do
The Salt Mines (Salzwelten) – way more exciting than the name might suggest, this subterranean mountain cave network is heaps of fun including a ride on a mine train and miners’ slides to whizz down. The underground tour is only suitable for those aged 4 and above but The Celtic Mountain adventure park upstairs has plenty to occupy any littler ones in the group.
Keltenblitz Alpine Slide – for spring/summer adventurers it’s well worth making the short journey from the city to ride Salzburg’s alpine coaster. Kids (6+) will love controlling their own sleds as they weave down the impressive 2.2km slide reaching speeds of up to 40km/h. Younger ones can ride with an adult and set their own pace, taking more time to soak up the views of the Salzach River Valley below.
Hohensalzburg Fortress – this impressive medieval fortress is as iconic a feature of Salzburg as its mountain backdrop and is a must for any kid (or adult) into knights and castles. Our kids loved the 54 second funicular railway trip up/down and with a whole village of activities to explore there’s plenty to entertain as well as some impressive 360 degree views of the city.
Salzburg Marionette Theatre – Run by some of the world’s most talented puppeteers, performances here are nothing short of a work of art. With a magic-filled programme spanning fairytales, musicals and even opera there is something to charm every age group.
Where To Eat
Imlauer Sky Bar and Restaurant – this is the place to head for sunset, or sunrise, views over the city. There’s an excellent cocktail menu and food to suit all taste buds but it was their brunch which was a particular hit with our little ones. With an elegant but welcoming outdoor terrace and a spacious glass fronted restaurant, it’s an all-season hangout too.
St. Peter Stiftskeller – this may be (reputedly) Europe’s oldest restaurant, but with fun, colourful interiors it’s a theatrical as well as a foody delight. There are eleven unique dining rooms to choose from including a baroque hall, cosy wine vaults, and historic cavern rooms. The inner courtyard is particularly popular with families, bedecked with theatre props, pops of colour, and hopefully some sun!
Schloss Leopoldskron – A hub for art and culture in Salzburg, as well fans of The Sound of Music (the villa was the setting for the exterior scenes of Von Trapp family house). It’s not open to casual visitors but we were given a tip off that you can book in for breakfast/brunch in its gilded venetian rooms and are then free to roam the house and gardens. As a home to Salzburg Global, it’s played host to world famous artists and activists, including Ai Weiwei, and its red salon and wonderful library are
more than worth venturing into the suburbs for. Outside the kids played on the lakeside swing whilst I soaked up one of Hollywood’s most famous backdrops from its flower filled garden.
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